Marcel Joubert
Posted by Stephan Lublin on May 24 2020 4:53pm
If any winemaker is tied to a region, his blood-wine, and bones-sturdy vines, it’s Marcel Joubert.
Marcel Joubert, is a fourth generation winemaker in the Beaujolais region of France. His roots are strong here and his lineage goes beyond the common winemaking family. Not only are they vignerons, Marcel’s grandfather, Petrus, founded the appellation of Brouilly, one of the ten “crus” of the region, which is still farmed by Domaine Joubert today. In 1972 Marcel took over the 10 hectare estate, which stretches the appellations of Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Fleurie, Chiroubles & Morgon, from his father, with a focus to preserve old vines, and to continue his family’s legacy. Eight years later, in 1980, in a twist of fate, Marcel Joubert met Marcel Lapierre at a motorcycle rally, an encounter that would steer the vineyard and winemaking to go the natural direction. No pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, nor any other “cides” would ever be used again, just organic agriculture and biodynamic practices, native yeast fermentation, without filtration, and without added SO2.
Later, Lapierre, along with Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet, would go on to world recognition known as, “The Gang of Four,” a name given by renowned wine importer Kermit Lynch. The wines of Marcel Joubert, however, have remained less known, less exalted, but nevertheless just as beautiful, nuanced, textured, and with precision of terroir as any other.
In 2016 Marcel Joubert handed the reins to his daughter, Carine, who is now the family’s 5th generation winemaker, to continue the domaine, following the same principles as her father.
What the wines may lack in fancy or elegant labels, they make up for in substance. The Morgon Côte du Py 2017 jumps out of the glass with a fresh, earthy, and spicy nose, beaming of red cherry and forest floor. The Brouilly Vieilles Vignes 2017 is more subtle, with fall leaves, pink peppercorn, candied cherry, and rose nuances. Both pair perfectly with classic french fare like boudin noir, duck breast, and anything with a gamey overtone, but can just as easily pair with bbq ribs or a burger. Whichever cuvee and pairing you choose, you will be drinking the history of a region and passion of a winemaker. Santé!