This Pic Saint Loup is not your average “GSM,” or whatever the hip somms are calling them these days. Maybe it’s the biodynamics: ever since converting several years ago, the three brothers in charge of this estate have achieved a newfound energy and vitality in their wines. While meaty and chewy, Tour de Pierres remains utterly drinkable. The 50% Syrah brings smoky, grilled, umami notes that are nicely complemented by the 40% Grenache’s supple fruit, while a dollop of Mourvèdre adds a touch of the dark side. Don’t overlook this generous southern red with uncommon drinkability—it’s a bargain and a treat